![]() Of the well over 1500 gaming sessions I've run in that time, I've probably used DF for at least one out of five sessions - maybe more, since I used it a lot more frequently in those early years, but use more of a variety of surfaces these days. I've had Dwarven Forge stuff since the late 90's. It adds character to the table, and I think it makes those encounters more memorable. I love the way it looks, and love the way it can draw the player's attention to the dungeon or set piece. If you've got questions, I can try to answer on my breaks at work :) Very simple, but the walls added exactly what we needed to boost our imaginations. I put a few walls in a row, built up some "watchtowers", and put some shrubs on the mat. For example, in my sci fi game I used the mat and some cavern wall pieces to make the wall and entrance of a cliff-dwelling alien tribe. The tiles also gain usefulness when you use them in a scattered, fast-and-loose manner, in combination with something like a chessex game mat. Leave the less-important, unplanned encounters to theater of the mind or sketches on paper. The tiles shine as pre-made dungeons and set pieces. I would recommend not trying to build a dungeon on the fly, even if you have the floorplan right in front of you (maybe especially then, since you'll be tempted to take time to "get it right"). So, speaking to value for a scenario, they're a tool to be used for the right job. It's all about assisting the imagination, anyway. Lay a black cloth on the table so tiles don't roll around, then just specify at game time whether the line of 2x2 floor tiles is a bridge over a chasm or a hallway lined with stone walls. If you only get one set, make use of negative space in your layouts to help flex pieces you might run out of. There are painting tutorials on their YouTube channel that were really helpful in learning to paint the tiles don't skip them if you go that route. Starting with a smaller set might make that less of an issue. ![]() I had 5 sets from the first Kickstarter project, and several years later I still haven't put on the finishing touches of paint. If cost is a big concern, save up some money and google for tutorials on cardboard "2.5D dungeon tiles" until you can afford DF.īuy them unpainted and paint it yourself to stretch your dollar further. I don't know of any other modular system that holds a torch to DF at the moment, so it's really hard to judge the "value" on anything besides how good they look on the table. It's up to you to decide if this is the product your table needs. You won't win diorama competitions, but you will win admiration at your game table!Ĭost is definitely a negative point, but you get WAY more bang for your buck in the new "game tiles" than in the old resin sets. You could say that the product is not perfect, though they strive to be and are responsive to customer concerns. Sometimes there are warping issues with the larger pieces, but it's almost undetectable besides the "curling" that occurred on the extra-large floor pack tiles. They're designed for play, first and foremost. I mean, you can do it for sure (there are some IMPRESSIVE photos on the forums), but the real reason you buy DF is so you can show a 60' x 60' dungeon room, its contents, and its exits, then take it apart and rearrange it to show a hallway and alcove coming off a side exit. I'm not seeking to make display-quality dioramas, but IMO that's not the reason you buy DF product in the first place. The plastic tiles are miles easier to transport, since they weigh less and you can just throw them in a duffel bag without special packing. I had a chance to play with the older stuff at a game store, and while it definitely feels more solid, the plastic tiles are worry-free since they can't chip or crack. I'm really happy with the durable feel of the new pieces as opposed to the older resin. I'm going to ramble for a bit and hopefully it's useful to you. Three-time Kickstarter backer for DF here.
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